Montse Estruch
EL CINGLE *
Montse Estruch: “Quiero reír, comer, beber y amar”.
La chef catalana que consiguió ingresar al Olimpo de las codiciadas estrellas Michelín, En Europa la admiran y la adoran, porque ha logrado feminizar la alta cocina del Viejo Continente, que hasta la fecha parecía reservada para hombres.
Frente al imponente santuario de Montserrat, en la localidad catalana de Vacarisses, aparece una antigua construcción de estilo mediterráneo, justo al lado de una iglesia con torreón medieval que hace un poco de sombra en las calurosas tardes que en estos días parecen aletargar todo en esta parte de Europa. Es el restaurante “El Cingle” (cuya traducción sería algo similar a peñasco o piedra cortada) que, a una hora y media de Barcelona y a dos de Cadaqués, la cuna de Dalí, se ha transformado con los años en una referencia obligada de la nueva cocina española.
Montse Estruch, su chef ejecutiva, llegó al mundo gastronómico porque un día, a los 27 años, se dio cuenta de que su vida debía dar un giro. “Había un vacío y necesitaba hacer algo que realmente fuera fiel a mis sueños más esenciales. Y ahí estaba el mundo de la cocina, que me seducía como ninguna otra cosa”.
Hija de los dueños de este magnífico edificio que ahora se denomina restaurante “El Cingle” y que antes fue un parador obligado en la ruta de las montañas catalanas, Montse pudo convencer a sus padres para que cambiaran el giro del hostal por un auténtico templo de la investigación culinaria y el deleite de los sentidos.
Claro que antes pasó por la Escuela de Hostelería de Barcelona, por los cursos de pastelería con Yannick Lefort, de gastronomía con el aclamado Pierre Hermé de Fauchon y en la exclusiva Escuela Amadi, junto a profesores de la talla de Bernard Benbassat y Mey Hoffman; además de una serie de temporadas de “reciclaje”, o prácticas como se denominan en el resto de España, en el Hotel Crillón de París; en el Bulli de Girona bajo la tutela de Ferrán Adria y, en País Vasco, junto a Juan María Arzak y Martín Berasategui.
Los créditos de Montse son muchos: programas de cocina en la televisión; banquetes y catering para eventos del cine y la realeza europea; cenas para las firmas más importantes de Francia, España e Italia; tres libros publicados de gastronomía y, este año, su primera estrella Michelín, el galardón más preciado que puede conseguir la escena de la cocina internacional.
En este periplo de investigación culinaria y de gente que viaja desde los cinco continentes para conocer lo que hoy llaman el fenómeno Montse, o la esperada feminización de la nueva cocina europea.
–Y habrá también un vuelco en tu cocina.–Claro que sí. Siempre estas experiencias te dejan algo. Pero imagínate, Montse reflejada en el Valle de la Luna. Eso también influirá en mis ideas y en mis propuestas culinarias.
Alrededor de la mesa
–Me doy cuenta de que te encanta el sentido de la puesta en escena, de esa cosa atmosférica de tu cocina.–¡Cómo no! Me encanta sentir que la gente se sienta feliz y honrada alrededor de una mesa. Para mí eso es vida y eso es magia, que las personas vibren. Claro, siempre que la compañía sea la adecuada, porque de lo contrario, te jodes... (y lanza una carcajada en medio de la inquieta cocina del restaurante).
–En Francia y ahora en España todo lo gourmet tiene un concepto. En este sentido, ¿cómo definirías tu cocina?–Mi cocina tiene una larga definición, es una cocina viva, de esencias, de sabores, de colores y texturas, siempre a través del sello del Mediterráneo y mi entorno que, ya ves, son las montañas de Montserrat.
En eso, interrumpe uno de sus ayudantes y dice: “Mira, tío, lo que la Montse hace es un don de Dios, que en su caso, es un don hecho arte”. Termina su alocución y sigue en lo suyo,
–Montse, ¿qué piensas de la cocina de autor?–Pues nada. Pienso que hay cocina de autor, como cocina de autora. Nunca olvides que la cocina tiene su color, su sexo y su humor.
–¿Cuál ha sido tu gran influencia? ¿Quién te ha enseñado más?–Todos. Pero me queda el gran recuerdo de Mey Hoffman. Ella, para mí, más que una maestra, fue un espejo. Su feminidad me dejó mucho, su arte era realmente una aventura de sensaciones. Y también bastante Bernard Benbassat por su técnica, su profesionalismo, su filosofía y su pulcritud a la hora de trabajar.
–Cuando hablas de platos y creaciones, ¿cuáles son tus máximos orgullos?–Mis cocciones de frutas y verduras en distintos grados, las reducciones de flores, mis pescados con pétalos, mi trabajo con el aceite de oliva. Mis ensaladas y mis postres. Creo que ahí he desarrollado mis propuestas más innovadoras.
–¿Cuál de tus platos consideras que es un imperdible?–Salmonetes con caviar, espárragos y trufa blanca.
–¿Cuáles son tus planes de hoy en adelante? ¿Tienes algo en mente?–Soy de esas mujeres que nunca se propone las cosas. Digo simplemente: hasta donde llegue estará bien, es decir, hasta que termine la ilusión, por supuesto. Yo quiero reír, comer, beber y amar.
–Junto a Cristián Correa, de “Agua”, harás un maridaje internacional, ¿de qué se trata?–Es una invitación de la revista internacional “Apicius”, donde invitan a chefs de distintas latitudes para que cada uno interprete a su manera la cocina del otro. Bueno, y nosotros nos hemos escogido. Yo también quise que así fuera. Me habían dicho que lo hiciera con un chef francés, pero con mucho respeto yo pedí que fuera con un chef de mi lengua, y con chileno qué mejor, ¿no?
–Me has dicho que los lugares son esenciales para inspirarte, ¿dónde vas cuando quieres encontrar esa inspiración?–Me voy a un lugar que se llama Aiguablava, en Portbó, y tomo una menorquina, una pequeña embarcación, y me gusta quedarme ahí, en medio del silencio del mar.
Entre copas
Un implemento que no puede faltar: una cuchara.Un ingrediente: aceite de oliva.Las esencias fundamentales: sal y pimienta.Un aroma: el de un caldo recién hecho.El lugar ideal para cocinar: un espacio pequeño, suficiente para cocinar a los que quiero.Para aplacar la sed: lo siento, pero soy feliz con una Coca-Cola Light.Un vino: todavía no existe. Será uno que yo misma produciré a partir del próximo año en el Priorato.El mejor comensal: un hombre sensible.Lo peor que le pueden decir a un/a chef: tu comida es perfecta.Y lo mejor: que han tenido un orgasmo gastronómico.Una fiesta inolvidable: la que prepararon mis amigos cuando cumplí 45 años y que incluyó de regalo una caída libre en paracaídas.¿A quién te gustaría cocinarle?: cualquiera diría al rey, pero ya lo hice. Pienso que me hubiera encantado cocinarle a Frida Kahlo.
Montse Estruch, su chef ejecutiva, llegó al mundo gastronómico porque un día, a los 27 años, se dio cuenta de que su vida debía dar un giro. “Había un vacío y necesitaba hacer algo que realmente fuera fiel a mis sueños más esenciales. Y ahí estaba el mundo de la cocina, que me seducía como ninguna otra cosa”.
Hija de los dueños de este magnífico edificio que ahora se denomina restaurante “El Cingle” y que antes fue un parador obligado en la ruta de las montañas catalanas, Montse pudo convencer a sus padres para que cambiaran el giro del hostal por un auténtico templo de la investigación culinaria y el deleite de los sentidos.
Claro que antes pasó por la Escuela de Hostelería de Barcelona, por los cursos de pastelería con Yannick Lefort, de gastronomía con el aclamado Pierre Hermé de Fauchon y en la exclusiva Escuela Amadi, junto a profesores de la talla de Bernard Benbassat y Mey Hoffman; además de una serie de temporadas de “reciclaje”, o prácticas como se denominan en el resto de España, en el Hotel Crillón de París; en el Bulli de Girona bajo la tutela de Ferrán Adria y, en País Vasco, junto a Juan María Arzak y Martín Berasategui.
Los créditos de Montse son muchos: programas de cocina en la televisión; banquetes y catering para eventos del cine y la realeza europea; cenas para las firmas más importantes de Francia, España e Italia; tres libros publicados de gastronomía y, este año, su primera estrella Michelín, el galardón más preciado que puede conseguir la escena de la cocina internacional.
En este periplo de investigación culinaria y de gente que viaja desde los cinco continentes para conocer lo que hoy llaman el fenómeno Montse, o la esperada feminización de la nueva cocina europea.
–Y habrá también un vuelco en tu cocina.–Claro que sí. Siempre estas experiencias te dejan algo. Pero imagínate, Montse reflejada en el Valle de la Luna. Eso también influirá en mis ideas y en mis propuestas culinarias.
Alrededor de la mesa
–Me doy cuenta de que te encanta el sentido de la puesta en escena, de esa cosa atmosférica de tu cocina.–¡Cómo no! Me encanta sentir que la gente se sienta feliz y honrada alrededor de una mesa. Para mí eso es vida y eso es magia, que las personas vibren. Claro, siempre que la compañía sea la adecuada, porque de lo contrario, te jodes... (y lanza una carcajada en medio de la inquieta cocina del restaurante).
–En Francia y ahora en España todo lo gourmet tiene un concepto. En este sentido, ¿cómo definirías tu cocina?–Mi cocina tiene una larga definición, es una cocina viva, de esencias, de sabores, de colores y texturas, siempre a través del sello del Mediterráneo y mi entorno que, ya ves, son las montañas de Montserrat.
En eso, interrumpe uno de sus ayudantes y dice: “Mira, tío, lo que la Montse hace es un don de Dios, que en su caso, es un don hecho arte”. Termina su alocución y sigue en lo suyo,
–Montse, ¿qué piensas de la cocina de autor?–Pues nada. Pienso que hay cocina de autor, como cocina de autora. Nunca olvides que la cocina tiene su color, su sexo y su humor.
–¿Cuál ha sido tu gran influencia? ¿Quién te ha enseñado más?–Todos. Pero me queda el gran recuerdo de Mey Hoffman. Ella, para mí, más que una maestra, fue un espejo. Su feminidad me dejó mucho, su arte era realmente una aventura de sensaciones. Y también bastante Bernard Benbassat por su técnica, su profesionalismo, su filosofía y su pulcritud a la hora de trabajar.
–Cuando hablas de platos y creaciones, ¿cuáles son tus máximos orgullos?–Mis cocciones de frutas y verduras en distintos grados, las reducciones de flores, mis pescados con pétalos, mi trabajo con el aceite de oliva. Mis ensaladas y mis postres. Creo que ahí he desarrollado mis propuestas más innovadoras.
–¿Cuál de tus platos consideras que es un imperdible?–Salmonetes con caviar, espárragos y trufa blanca.
–¿Cuáles son tus planes de hoy en adelante? ¿Tienes algo en mente?–Soy de esas mujeres que nunca se propone las cosas. Digo simplemente: hasta donde llegue estará bien, es decir, hasta que termine la ilusión, por supuesto. Yo quiero reír, comer, beber y amar.
–Junto a Cristián Correa, de “Agua”, harás un maridaje internacional, ¿de qué se trata?–Es una invitación de la revista internacional “Apicius”, donde invitan a chefs de distintas latitudes para que cada uno interprete a su manera la cocina del otro. Bueno, y nosotros nos hemos escogido. Yo también quise que así fuera. Me habían dicho que lo hiciera con un chef francés, pero con mucho respeto yo pedí que fuera con un chef de mi lengua, y con chileno qué mejor, ¿no?
–Me has dicho que los lugares son esenciales para inspirarte, ¿dónde vas cuando quieres encontrar esa inspiración?–Me voy a un lugar que se llama Aiguablava, en Portbó, y tomo una menorquina, una pequeña embarcación, y me gusta quedarme ahí, en medio del silencio del mar.
Entre copas
Un implemento que no puede faltar: una cuchara.Un ingrediente: aceite de oliva.Las esencias fundamentales: sal y pimienta.Un aroma: el de un caldo recién hecho.El lugar ideal para cocinar: un espacio pequeño, suficiente para cocinar a los que quiero.Para aplacar la sed: lo siento, pero soy feliz con una Coca-Cola Light.Un vino: todavía no existe. Será uno que yo misma produciré a partir del próximo año en el Priorato.El mejor comensal: un hombre sensible.Lo peor que le pueden decir a un/a chef: tu comida es perfecta.Y lo mejor: que han tenido un orgasmo gastronómico.Una fiesta inolvidable: la que prepararon mis amigos cuando cumplí 45 años y que incluyó de regalo una caída libre en paracaídas.¿A quién te gustaría cocinarle?: cualquiera diría al rey, pero ya lo hice. Pienso que me hubiera encantado cocinarle a Frida Kahlo.
38 Comments:
Conocí a Montse en Barcelona Degusta donde yo colaboraba tambien en el evento, concretamente en Sabores y Consumidores. Hablé con ella y me pareció una mujer muy inteligente. Sus creaciones culinarias ya las conocia. Ahora, puedo decir abiertamente que ambas cualidades tanto la profesional como la persona en si, estan en la misma altura.
JOAN VILLARÓ (Maestro cocinero)
www.joanvillaro.e.telefonica.net
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Xilisoft HD Video Converter Guide
Xilisoft HD Video Converter is a magic HD converter program for all High-Definition video lovers! It gives you all authority for video/audio converting. Either you want to convert between various video and audio formats, or extract pictures or audios from videos, or even create video from static pictures, this HD video editing software will obediently do the job for you with high efficiency.
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Provide Bitrate Calculator, a powerful application to calculate video bitrate, with file size and audio bitrate selected.
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